Babylonian Fashion
After penning a novel centered around ancient Babylon, my journey led me to dig deep into the sartorial practices of this ancient society. However, before we jump into the heart of Babylonian couture, let’s cast our eyes toward the dawn of Mesopotamian history, a region rich in cultural legacy and customs.
Part I: A Showcasing of Fashion through Time
Mesopotamia, often hailed as the birthplace of civilization, observed the progression of attire and garments that exceeded mere functionality to symbolize one’s place within the social hierarchy. From the simplistic loin garments of the Ubaid era (circa 5000–4100 BCE) to the lavish tunics and gowns of the Sassanian dynasty (224–651 CE), the evolution of clothing reflected changes yet adhered to its fundamental purpose and significance.
The Elegance of the Elite
Within any civilization, the privileged few and the nobility indulged in garments of superior quality and exquisite craftsmanship. As early as the Early Dynastic Period (2900–2334 BCE), if not earlier, clothing became a defining factor of one’s social standing and often reflected one’s chosen profession. While the statuary of the prehistoric era suggests the usage of rudimentary plant-based clothing, the advent of civilization brought forth a revolution in fashion and dress.
Textile Revealed
With the domestication of animals, wool became the primary fabric for clothing, while leather found its place in the making of footwear, particularly among the upper echelons of society. Vibrantly dyed garments became the coveted choice of the affluent, while the less fortunate donned simple white attire. However, even these humble garments featured elaborate designs, reminiscent of the embellishments adorning the skirts and loincloths of the Ubaid Period.
Mesopotamia’s Artistic Testimony
While the concept of clothing undoubtedly developed independently across various cultures, it is the land of Mesopotamia, particularly Sumer, that bore witness to the earliest recorded evidence of this sartorial evolution. Through the lens of Mesopotamian art and architecture, we gain invaluable insights into the transition from rudimentary to sophisticated styles. These artistic marvels exhibit the immense role clothing played in establishing social hierarchies and the power it held in shaping one’s identity.
Sumerian and Akkadian Fashion
During the Sumerian and Akkadian eras, men and women donned themselves with striking ensembles that spoke volumes about their identity and status. Among Sumerian and Akkadian men, personal grooming had a significant role in their appearance. With a choice between a clean-shaven face or beautified with flowing beards, their long hair was thoroughly parted in the middle. The prevalent form of clothing consisted of a flounced skirt, complemented by the occasional addition of felt cloaks. Over time, the flounced skirt gave way to the chiton, a long skirt that assumed prominence in their wardrobe. Enhancing their ensemble, a sizeable fringed shawl was draped over the left shoulder, affording freedom to the right arm.
Feminine Grace
Women in Sumerian and Akkadian societies exuded grace and appeal through their distinctive attire. They graced themselves with long, tufted shawls, resembling dresses that enveloped their figures from head to foot, leaving only the right shoulder exposed. Their hair, elegantly parted in the middle, was braided into elaborate pigtail formations, splendidly coiled around their heads. Intricate headdresses decked their locks, featuring a lovely selection of hair ribbons, beads, and pendants, adding a touch of heavenly beauty to their overall ensemble.
Part II: Babylonian Fashion
In the domain of Babylonian attire, this ancient civilization lavished their ageless fashions with sumptuous adornments. Beyond their monumental strides in civil engineering, monumental design, and scholarly pursuits, Babylonia was renowned for its pioneering approach to style. The esteemed chronicler Herodotus captured their unique fashion sense, richly depicting the splendor of their dress. With immense esteem for their wardrobe, the Babylonians utilized a range of mediums like sculptures, inscriptions, and pottery to display their artistic finesse and incomparable fashion sense.
Diverging from earlier societies that predominantly used animal hides for clothing, the Babylonians exploited textiles such as goat fleece and sheep wool more extensively, designing outfits that radiated elegance. Among their array of exquisitely woven attire, wraps and gowns became hallmarks of high caliber and chic appeal. The craft of cloth production and commerce thrived in Babylon, with their textiles sought after as prestigious presents for foreign dignitaries. Wool, prized for its plentiful supply, utility, and thermal qualities, graced everything from mantles to footwear. Women, adept at their craft, were instrumental in Babylonian culture, masterfully operating weaving frames to produce elaborate wool textiles and assembling ornate apparel and robes.
Their garments, enwrapping gracefully to the ground, comprised linen undergarments stylishly covered by woolen pieces. A white wrap elegantly draped their shoulders, symbolizing sophistication. Their shoes, influenced by local designs, were the epitome of refinement, complementing their rich wardrobe. Mantles acted as splendid outerwear, enhancing their carefully constructed outfits.
Belts, designed as bands or dainty blossoms, encircled the midsections of both genders, serving various functions from denoting vigor to promoting health. Ladies styled belts under their breasts to highlight their charm, whereas gentlemen wore metal belts to keep their warrior-like figures in check and prevent corpulence.
Babylonian outfits, marked by layered fringe skirts, shone in vivid shades like crimson, ash, amber, and ivory, showcasing the distinctive fashion ethos Mesopotamia was celebrated for. These striking colors did indeed reflect the opulence of Babylonian culture.
Their tresses, kept long, were embellished with intricate headwraps, casting an aura of majesty. A delightful scent pervaded, originating from the exotic fragrances that clung to them. Emblematic of their uniqueness, each Babylonian male had a personalized seal ring and an astonishingly carved cane, each bearing an enchanting motif. Apples, roses, lilies, and eagles, among other noble symbols, decorated these canes, marking their esteemed status within the community.
Regal Attire: A Glimpse into Royal Fashion
The garments worn by kings, too, were a reflection of their elevated status and lavish taste. The famous stele of the Code of Hammurabi provides a striking depiction of Hammurabi adorned in a regal ensemble. Draped over his left arm, he wears a long robe, complemented by a distinguished headdress. As fashion extended its influence even to the divine realm, the (idolatrized) god of the sun and justice, Utu-Shamash, stands alongside Hammurabi, dressed in a flounced robe with descending layers and an exquisitely designed headpiece.
Layers of Distinction: Clothing and Social Hierarchy
Babylonian society witnessed a clear distinction in attire between the upper and lower classes. The elite were clothed in robes and tunics crafted from luxurious linen, while the lower classes opted for garments fashioned from wool. The foundational attire for men consisted of a hat, a simple tunic, and sandals, with additional layers serving as a sign of affluence. Women shared a similar basic outfit, yet decorated it with ornate embellishments and a wider range of accessories.
As in previous eras, the length of one’s clothing marked one’s social rank, with those of greater means flaunting longer tunics and robes. The lower classes of Babylonia typically wore shorter tunics or kaunakes, eschewing headdresses, and staffs unless necessitated by their occupations. Priests retained their distinctive identification through the donning of long robes, often accentuated by a sacred goatskin shawl or wrap.
Cosmetics and Jewelry
In Babylonian society, cosmetics held a significant role in the beauty practices embraced by both men and women. Kohl (or kehl; kuhl), gently applied beneath the eyes, shielded against the glare of the sun while enhancing one’s allure. Adornments of jewelry were equally cherished, reflecting a deep appreciation for extravagance and individual expression. Cylinder seals, engraved with personal markings and employed for identification and sealing legal documents, were often affixed to robes or tunics, functioning as symbols of uniqueness and authority.
Within the lofty tiers of society, the privileged few reveled in the splendor of luxuriously dyed fringed garments, resplendent in their opulence and magnificence. These masterpieces of sartorial artistry were symbols of affluence and social standing, evoking an air of prestige that remained beyond the reach of the lower classes, owing to the remarkable craftsmanship and attention to detail that characterized their creation.
Within the bastion of wealth and influence that defined Babylon, the splendor of gold trinkets and baubles graced the elite with prodigal splendor. These fancy pieces, often inlaid with gemstones that were heirlooms of their dynasties, mirrored their considerable fortunes. Pins, clasps, earpieces, chains, and foot chains were sought-after decorative items, each manifesting the luxury that was synonymous with the lives of prosperous clans. Nonetheless, it was the sovereign lineage that commanded the most expansive and esteemed collection of adornments in all of Babylon. Celebrated for their fine craftsmanship and radiant elegance, the regal cache of jewels outshone all, expressing the zenith of lavishness and kingly grace.
Tresses and Tenderness: Haircare and Headwear
The Assyrians and Babylonians alike dedicated fastidious attention to their hairdos. Complex styles were carefully cultivated, featuring elaborately coiled and looped hair, occasionally augmented with faux strands to delve into shortly. Exclusive concoctions, including aromatic scents, unguents, and the application of ebony tints, were utilized to enhance the beauty of their locks.
Specifically, the Babylonians prized the sophistication of extended hairdos, with women applying meticulous craft to arrange their locks into elegantly coiled buns, at times integrating faux hair for increased volume and decorative panache. Men devoted significant effort to maintaining their charming, opulently curled facial hair. A circlet made from metal or textile, or a distinguished hat shaped like a fez made from wool, felt, or hide, crowned their heads. The royal tiara, evocative of a folded diadem or a high cap, was further garnished with hanging strips at the rear. This noble cap was decked with detailed jewels, showcasing wealth and masterful artisanship.
In the luxurious echelons of Babylonian society, hairpieces ascended beyond simple fashion statements to symbols of high social standing, safeguarding the elite’s status across genders. These luxurious hair decorations, fashioned with precision and creativity, were a common spectacle at fancy royal events, drawing all eyes with their dynamic appeal and underscoring the importance of extravagant presentation.
Within the Babylonian ethos, hairpieces went beyond mere aesthetic appeal, representing deep symbolic significance. Wearing these elaborate accessories signified one’s societal stature, emanating an air of dominance and distinction. Whether made from authentic strands, bejeweled with precious stones, or composed of the finest materials, these hairpieces were mighty symbols of influence and acclaim, cementing an individual’s place within the social hierarchy.
An Example of Babylonian Jewelry
Situated within the confines of New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, the stunning gold pendants and beads showcased in the aforementioned image epitomize the extraordinary skill inherent in ancient Mesopotamian goldsmithing. Originating from the 18th to 17th centuries BCE, these notable relics hold deep significance, symbolizing either (idolatrized) deities or their hallowed insignias.
Within this impressive collection, we are greeted by two female effigies, each crowned with horned headdresses and gracefully attired in tiered, ripple-patterned gowns. These figures are thought to represent Lama, a (idolatrized) goddess lauded for her guardian attributes. Additionally, our attention is seized by a luminous disc, its surface radiating beams from a prominent central hub. This splendid icon pays homage to Shamash, the (idolatrized) solar deity who cast light upon the ancients. Moreover, we are struck by a distinctive bifurcated lightning motif, emblematic of Adad, the (idolatrized) weather deity, celebrated for his fabled thunderous repute.
Venturing further into this cache of divine emblems, we discover two bewitching discs graced with meticulously granulated rosettes. These glorious pieces presumably symbolize Ishtar, the (idolatrized) divinity presiding over both amour and combat, linked with the planet Venus. Observing similar neckpieces, featuring these poignant symbols, gracing sovereign figures in subsequent Assyrian bas-reliefs, suggests these enticing adornments fulfilled a twofold role: as exquisite ornaments and powerful amulets.
Please note that all images were sourced from Google Images, except for the final image, which was obtained directly from the NY Metropolitan Museum website.
